I love three-piece suits. I love their sophisticated presence, paired with the quirkiness that comes from taking the jacket off and sporting just the vest for a bit. They say to me, “I’m hardworking, thoughtful, I’m here for the long haul.” I love that they go in and out of style, but never become extremely popular. If someone wears one you know that person is really committed to the three-piece suit and everything it stands for and he didn’t just pick it up because GQ said it was in this season.
That’s why I was so excited when I met Mr. G. He was sporting a navy pinstripe three-piece suit along with his cane. Mr. G used to work with my Aunt at Goldman Sachs. He was a tremendous banker. At this point he is fairly old, but still goes to work every day, dressed to the nines, and plays cards with the gentlemen at the country club. He was a delight to meet, but the best part of meeting him was when we discussed my pig hunting. Mr. G told us how he used to watch his father skin hogs when he was growing up in Georgia. He told us about packing the meat in salt to create hams, just as I’d read about in The River Cottage Cookbook (my favorite cookbook of all time – seriously, if you don’t have it, you should buy it.)
“Did they get moldy?” I asked, since I’d read that often happens and then you have to scrape off the mold.
“Oh yes,” he replied, “You just scrape off the mold.”
Mr. G told us about keeping potatoes under the house all winter and how they’d eat pork and potatoes so often that he never really likes to eat pork anymore. He told us about the week the bank closed down during the depression and if people didn’t have cash in their pockets, they couldn’t get any for a week. Many just sat in the street bewildered or crying. His father tried to buy gas from the man he always purchased gas from, but the man wouldn’t take credit, only cash. So his father bought his gas from the German man down the road who gave him credit and that’s where he always went forever after that.
After we left lunch that day my Aunt turned to me and said she’d never heard any stories about Mr. G growing up. She’d never heard anything about his life before he wore three-piece pinstriped suits and traveled the world and drank fine spirits and had done so very, very well for himself. These are the stories I love hearing about on my American Meat Project journey.
If you ask someone under fifty years of age for a story about food, or where it came from, or what they ate growing up, they usually talk about grocery stores, restaurants, or local organic food production. If you ask someone over fifty for such a story, almost everyone has a tale about their mother, father, grandmother or grandfather and how he or she killed some type of farm animal. Or how she and her siblings plucked the hundred chickens their mother bought for the family to eat that year. Or the time he was told to wait patiently in the car while his mother picked up the rent check from a farm tenant, except he picked up a chicken while he was “waiting” and when his mother got back the chicken was dead.
“What are you doing with a dead chicken?” she asked.
“It wasn’t dead when I started playing with it,” he answered.
These stories are fascinating. They’re about people’s basic connection to the foods they ate and often how they survived during a time in our nation filled with economic and agricultural destitution. It is said we are in an economic crisis now. Yet, I see lots of people at restaurants. I know they’re there because I’m there too. It is also said that great innovation, resilience, and rebirth comes during times of crisis. These stories make me think that if Mr. G can go from scraping mold off ham all winter to playing cards at the country club and my starting point is eating out at restaurants, then to be transformative I really need to step up my game. I think sometimes the Mr. G’s of the world and all their stories serve as a mirror for us to look in and ask ourselves, do I or do I not want to step up to the three-piece suit? If looked at right, I think we’re forced to come up with our own vision, to step up our own hustle, and to force ourselves to really be transformative – maybe just a little bit, maybe every other day or so.